1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 3

Rubber Grommet

I found the primary culprit when searching for "BMW Z3 Throttle Cable" it is called a "Rubber Grommet for Accelerator Pedal Linkage"(14) it costs $2.00 from this website. Also there is a Clip(11) that looks like it secures the grommet and the linkage to the gas Pedal as you can see in this diagram.  However I cannot find the clip in a store online to replace it I will check with the Dealer to see if it is covered under the previous recall or if they can order the clip for me.

Gas Pedal Linkage Diagram

See Part 1 and Part 2 of this Blog Post

1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 2

While Researching it I found this Recall on this website. I am not sure if it is related however I plan to contact my BMW Dealer to see if this recall was completed on my car.

1996 BMW Z3 Recalls 

Safety is an important consideration when buying a car. AutoBuyGuide.com is dedicated to providing you with all of the safety and 1996 BMW Z3 recall information you need to keep your family safe. Search our catalog of official 1996 BMW Z3 recalls to view all car defects and reports for all submodels. Is your car safe? Check the current 1996 BMW Z3 recalls listed at AutoBuyGuide.com for your vehicle to find out.

1996 BMW Z3 Recall ID from NHTSA: 97V131000

Auto Recall Date: 08/19/1997
Vehicle Component: VEHICLE SPEED CONTROL
Estimated Vehicles Affected: 410000
1996 BMW Z3 Defect Summary:
THE CRUISE CONTROL AND THROTTLE CABLES ARE ATTACHED TO THE SAME THROTTLE VALVE ACTUATING LEVER AT THE THROTTLE HOUSING. IT IS POSSIBLE THAT THE PLASTIC BUSHING ON EITHER CABLE COULD BREAK DUE TO ENVIRONMENTAL INFLUENCES COUPLED WITH VIBRATION. IF THE BUSHING BREAKS, THE OUTER CABLE HOUSING CAN SEPARATE FROM THE BUSHING. IN THIS CASE, DURING APPLICATION OF THE THROTTLE PEDAL WITHOUT CRUISE CONTROL BEING ENGAGED, THE OUTER TUBE COULD CATCH ON THE EDGE OF THE BROKEN BUSHING.
Defect Consequence:
THIS COULD CAUSE THE THROTTLE VALVE TO REMAIN PARTIALLY OPEN. IT HIS WERE TO OCCUR, THE CAR MIGHT NOT DECELERATE AS EXPECTED INCREASING THE RISK OF A VEHICLE CRASH.
Remedy:
DEALERS WILL INSTALL A SPRING STEEL CLIP ON THE OUTER TUBE OF EACH CABLE IN THE AREA OF THE ADJUSTING SCREW AND PLASTIC BUSHING. THE CLIP IS DESIGNED TO PREVENT THE OUTER TUBE FROM DISLODGING FROM THE BUSHING.
Notes: BAYERISCHE MOTOREN WERKE, 

To see the diagnosis of my car see this post  1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 1

1996 BMW Z3 Throttle Cable Issue - PART 1

So I drive my car to work, no problems. Shut the car off, work till lunch then I go back out start the car for lunch and have no gas pedal, just a free swinging foot pedal. First thing I do is pop the hood take a look at the throttle housing and cables. I trace them from the throttle body to the firewall and see that all look fine under the hood so I look in the drivers side under the dash and find the black panel covering the area I need to see. I remove two "flathead" plastic screws and remove the panel then I see the gas pedal and it flops back and forth. I look farther up where the Throttle cable connects and sure enough the cable is there and the pedal is disconnected. I try to connect it and there seems to be a missing bushing or something that used to hold the cable in place is missing. I need to get it home so I have to rig it up to work till I can fix it properly without towing it. I DO NOT RECOMMEND DOING THIS EXCEPT IN AN EMERGENCY SITUATION, EVEN THEN I'M NOT RECOMMENDING IT IF YOU DO IT IT'S ON YOU!
I took a small paper clip slid it over the end and through the Gas Pedal connection then I secured it with a rubber band to keep it from falling out. I then Started the car and made sure that giving it gas would accelerate and decelerate with no issue. The deceleration obviously is the most important part here.

However after rigging it up to get it home I will now have to find how to secure it in a more permanent and safe manner.

See Part 2 and Part 3 of this Blog Post.

1996 BMW Stereo CODE WAIT

1996 BMW Z3 "CODE WAIT" Radio Locked

 1996 BMW Z3 Stereo went into "CODE WAIT". Well actually I put it in Code Wait. SO I replaced my O2 Sensor as indicated in my posts Part 1 and Part 2. After I replaced the Sensor I removed the negative battery terminal connector for 30 minutes to reset the light (If the check engine light stays on try disconnecting the battery to reset the car's computer). Which when I reconnected it I had to set my clock which was easy BUT when I turned on the Stereo, on the display it showed CODE _ _ _ _ _  and by entering numbers from the preset buttons it either worked or didn't. I FORTUNATELY have the CODE however for purposes of writing this blog I purposely entered the incorrect code into my BMW Z Radio and it went into "CODE WAIT". So if you do this here is what you have to do to fix it. First you have to do one of two things.

1. Disconnect the Battery to reset the computer again.

2. Leave the car in the "ON" position for 90 Minutes and the radio will reset and "CODE" will appear.

you can now enter your code.....If you have it. Typically it is given to the owner and may be with a seperate Radio "Security" packet. and will have two small credit card, cards that have the "CODE" on them. IF by some chance you do not have the code you can get it by finding the serial number of the radio and taking it to your dealer. Here is the way to get the Serial Number. 

1. If the radio is in the "CODE" mode awaiting you to enter a 5 digit code you can hold in your "M" button and it will display the S/N of the radio.

2. Remove the radio and look at the back.

No take the Serial Number to your BMW Dealer with your proof of ownership (Registration, bill of sale, etc...) they will look up your Code for you.
There is one problem here. There are two manufacturers of radios in most BMW cars, Alpine and Blaupunkt
If you get the code from the dealer it may be wrong because you go the one for the opposite radio manufacturer. If they give you the wrong code try it in the radio and if it doesn't work reset the radio again and go back into the dealer and tell them the situation ALSO when they say "Sorry we can't help you then" or "well then it must not be the original radio that came with the car" Tell them  "You know that there two manufacturers of the radios and that there is a chance that there is another code and they gave you the wrong one".  If they don't give you a second number tell them also to call BMWNA who are the people that provide assistance to the BMW Dealers when they get stumped.  Once you have the right code and you input it into the radio it takes about 5 seconds for the code to unlock the radio and you will have music again.

Removing a Seized or Stuck BMW Z3 O2 Sensor

Car on the lift

2. Rounded bolt head on O2 Sensor

SO I had to replace my O2 Sensor on my 1996 BMW Z3. See my post on replacing a BMW O2 Sensor. I already had my car jacked up and I tried a 7/8 wrench which started the rounding of the bolt head then I tried to rent the "O2 Sensor Socket Tool" from Autozone and it further rounded the head. (costs $25 to rent the tool and you get your money back).

A Pipe wrench may end up as your last resort

However I rounded it enough that I needed to take it to a shop and have them lift it and get the O2 Sensor out. They ended up using a Pipe Wrench which if I had one may have worked if I could have gotten enough torque on it. It cost $47 but it was worth the time and effort and they put the new one in for free.

Location of the OBD Plug on a 1996 BMW Z3

Passenger Side OBD Plug

So where is the OBD Plug on a 1996 BMW Z3. At first I thought it was under the hood which is true if you are an authorized BMW dealer and you use the plug in your BMW Shop. The plug then is located under the hood as shown in the picture below. BUT if you are a DIYer you need the plug for the OBD II connection and it is located on the passenger side on the kick panel on the left side.

OBD Plug 1996 BMW Z3

If you see in the picture below it shows that the plug has a cover on it that says "OBD" once you remove the cover you see the OBD Plug and the plug has a cover on it as well which is easily removed to expose the plug and allow you to read the codes from your car. See this resource online for OBD codes. Also this is the location for the OBD Plug on a 1996 BMW Z3. Yours may be in a different location HOWEVER I read that it should be never more that 2 ft from the drivers seat.

Check Engine Light on a 1996 BMW Z3 - PART 2 - O2 Sensor replacement (P1186)

O2 Sensor is on the passenger side.

Car jacked up - O2 Sensor is on the left side underneath

Close up of O2 Sensor in the exhaust

I went to Autozone and had them read the code on my 1996 BMW Z3.  See my post on the location of the OBD connection on a BMW Z3.The code showed a P1186, I researched the code and found it is an "O2 Sensor Heater Control Circuit" (Bank 1 Sensor 2). So I searched some more and found that I need to replace my O2 Sensor on my BMW Z3. Where is the O2 Sensor on a 1996 BMW Z3. On the 1996 BMW Z3 the O2 Sensor is located on the right (passenger) side of the car underneath and towards the front on the side of the exhaust pipe near the front Exhaust manifold and in front of the Catalytic converter. It is actually in a good location on the side and not on the top so you can get a wrench on the (22mm) head. I recommend a 22mm wrench as opposed to a 7/8in wrench due to the more exact fit. the 7/8 has enough play in it and the sensor is so tightly installed that you may strip out the edges of the sensor nut head. (which I did). See my post on removing a seized or locked O2 Sensor from a BMW Z3.

Side view of O2 Sensor

First thing your need to do is jack up the car. getting under it can be tight I recommend ramps or at least getting it up off the ground to get jack stands under it, i used two by fours to get it up enough to get my floor jack under it. Once up you can see the O2 Sensor from the Drivers side by looking under it and seeing exactly where it is located. You can see it clearly in the picture on the right showing where the sensor is located.

1). Exhaust Manifold to exhaust pipe. 2). O2 Sensor. 3). Catalytic Converter

Once the car is up you can easily see the (2) O2 Sensor in the side of the exhaust pipe. Notice how the sensor cable is connected at the top. It is easily remove by just gently pulling it out of it's socket. You can use a flat screw drive to reach up and get to it and gently slide the connection out if needed.

1. Electrical Connection on O2 Sensor

Take note of the new O2 Sensor, and the connection. The new O2 Sensor will have anti-seize grease on it and if not use some prior to putting it in.

New 1996 O2 Sensor

Screw the new sensor into the opening being careful to not touch the ceramic end of the sensor and not getting anti-seize compound on the end of the sensor. Tighten the sensor to 40ft pounds of torque. Once completed lower the car and take it for a test drive and then recheck under the car for any leaks (should be NONE) or anything else under the car that may be out of place. If the check engine light does not go off. remove your negative battery connection for 30 minutes to reset the computer then drive it and watch to ensure the check engine light does not come back on. If it does go back and have the codes read again and see if now something else is an issue and may be the root cause of the sensor going bad.