PART 3, BMW Z3 Won't Shift Into Gear

Now I have Identified the issue a Bad Seal on the Slave Cylinder, I purchased the part for $62. I jacked the car up, and now I'm ready to change out the part.

First I need to BENCH BLEED the new part. SO I take the new part out and pour fluid into the fluid line connection point and work the plunger to create suction that pulls fluid into the part. I do this until no more air comes out. You'll still have a little air BUT it can be bled once the part is install. Next I need to remove the old part.

1. Two bolts to transmission. 2. Flange fluid line connector. 3. Bleeder screw

Unbolt the two bolts (#1) that hold the slave cylinder to the transmission housing. Once it is disconnected the part will slide our and the plunger will be sticking out, you can see how the plunger goes into the part and how it rests on the inside of the transmission to acuate the clutch. Pay attention to this step so you can reassemble later. Next with the part disconnected it will hang down connected to the fluid line. This makes it easy to disconnect and reconnect the new part because the fluid connection is upright and fluid will not pour our of the new part when reconnecting the line. NOW with the new part close by and the main BRAKE FLUID RESEVOIR TOPPED OFF disconnect the fluid line flange nut, use the correct size nut so you do not strip this fitting, then reconnect the fluid line to the NEW part. Once tightened, you can insert the plunger into the opening on the transmission housing and push it in to reattached the two nuts onto the bolts that are cast into the housing. There may be some preassure since the part has fluid in it and needs to be bled BUT pushing it in far enough to get the nuts started shouldn't be difficult. Once the nuts are started tighten them down and then you can begin the bleeding process.
Bleeding the clutch is similar to bleeding brakes you need to be able to pump the clutch up to some pressure and then while the pedal is depressed. open the bleeder screw to let out the air in the system. You will repeat the process a quite a few times to get almost all of the air out. (most systems will also remove air over time so the more you get out now the sooner your clutch will really tighten up.) I know what your thinking I have to pump up the clutch, I get pressure then I have to keep it depressed and crawl back under the car to open the bleeder screw. Well you need to rig up something to keep the pedal pressed in OR you need two people. I tried a bleeding kit but didn't have any luck (maybe because I wasn't too familiar with how to use it) regardless it is easy to do once you figure out how to keep the pedal depressed. One thing to remember is that when you keep the pedal depressed with pressure on the system, once you open the bleeder screw fluid will shoot out. When there is AIR in the system it will be a pulsating flow of fluid. Make sure you keep the resevoir FULL and bleed the brakes till you have minimal pulsating fluid when the bleeder screw is opened. This may be a good time to drain the system which can be done just like this while opening the bleeder screw and draining the fluid without and refilling the resevoir until all new fluid is in the system.